SEVEN ITALIAN WINE THIS MONTH ON THE TOP WINES MEDIA&PRESS
UK PRESS
San Pietro Alto Adige Schiava 2013
Terry Kirby picked out a number of “unusual wines from Italy’s northernmost area”, including this red from the Alto Adige, writing in The Independent this week.
He said: “Made with the Schiava grape – called Trollinger over the border in Germany – it is light and floral, with masses of brightly refreshing, red-berry fruit flavours and a spicy finish. Different and beguiling. Serve with pasta with cream sauces, veal escalope or roast chicken.”
Price: £10.70, hhandc.co.uk; £13.49, ocado.com
Barone Pizzini, Franciacorta Brut
He said: “Made with the Schiava grape – called Trollinger over the border in Germany – it is light and floral, with masses of brightly refreshing, red-berry fruit flavours and a spicy finish. Different and beguiling. Serve with pasta with cream sauces, veal escalope or roast chicken.”
Price: £10.70, hhandc.co.uk; £13.49, ocado.com
Barone Pizzini, Franciacorta Brut
Hailing from the premium region of Franciacorta, this sparkler was described by Cannavan as having “creamy, brioche notes that come with ageing in bottle”, much in the same way as Champagne.
He said: “Franciacorta in Lombardy is less familar, but is home to arguably the highest quality sparkling wines in Italy, made from the same grapes as Champagne, and in the traditional method with second fermentation and long aging in individual bottles. This wine comes from the organic and biodynamic estate of Barone Pizzini, and has a lovely weight of fruit and some of the creamy, brioche notes that come with ageing in bottle. It develops some toast and peach in the mouth, but never loses sight of its acidity, keeping it dry, fresh and delightful.”
Price: £20
He said: “Franciacorta in Lombardy is less familar, but is home to arguably the highest quality sparkling wines in Italy, made from the same grapes as Champagne, and in the traditional method with second fermentation and long aging in individual bottles. This wine comes from the organic and biodynamic estate of Barone Pizzini, and has a lovely weight of fruit and some of the creamy, brioche notes that come with ageing in bottle. It develops some toast and peach in the mouth, but never loses sight of its acidity, keeping it dry, fresh and delightful.”
Price: £20
Tedeschi Capitel San Rocco Valpolicella Ripasso 2012
“Sticking with traditional wines at Christmas? Bah, humbug!”, writes Terry Kirby in The Independent. If you are looking for something a bit different this Christmas, why not try this “rare red”, recommends Kirby.
He said: “”Ripasso” is made when young wine is “passed over” remnants of dried grapes used for Amarone, creating another fermentation before oak-ageing. Amazing depth of red fruit and spice, but still fresh. Suits all rich meat and poultry dishes.”
Price: £14.95,winedirect.co.uk; £15.59, villagewines.co.uk
He said: “”Ripasso” is made when young wine is “passed over” remnants of dried grapes used for Amarone, creating another fermentation before oak-ageing. Amazing depth of red fruit and spice, but still fresh. Suits all rich meat and poultry dishes.”
Price: £14.95,winedirect.co.uk; £15.59, villagewines.co.uk
US PRESS
Perticaia Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG 2009
Sandra Silfven, writing in the Detroit News, recommended this powerful red made from Sagrantino – a grape indigenous to Italy’s Umbria region.
She said: “This is a big, powerful, gorgeous red — full-bodied with bold, earthy flavors of dark plum, dark cooking spices — cinnamon, nutmeg — framed with dusty tannins and firm acidity. It’s drinking well now, but obviously has the structure and stuffing to age a long time. “Perticaia” means “plow” and seemed the natural name for vintner Guido Guardigli to give his winery.”
Price: $47
She said: “This is a big, powerful, gorgeous red — full-bodied with bold, earthy flavors of dark plum, dark cooking spices — cinnamon, nutmeg — framed with dusty tannins and firm acidity. It’s drinking well now, but obviously has the structure and stuffing to age a long time. “Perticaia” means “plow” and seemed the natural name for vintner Guido Guardigli to give his winery.”
Price: $47
“OMG!” was Silfven’s response to this “intense, concentrated and brooding” Italian red.
She said: “It’s like inhaling the aromas off the skins of ripe stone fruit — especially black plums. Think dark berries, dark dried fruit, dark chocolate, espresso, firm acidity, big tannins. Wine critic James Suckling gave it 95 points.”
Price: $45
She said: “It’s like inhaling the aromas off the skins of ripe stone fruit — especially black plums. Think dark berries, dark dried fruit, dark chocolate, espresso, firm acidity, big tannins. Wine critic James Suckling gave it 95 points.”
Price: $45
Santadi “Terre Brune” Carignano del Sulcis DOC Superiore 2008
“The wines of Sardinia’s Sulcis district are Italy’s unsung treasures,” according to Sandra Silfven of Detroit News. The region’s wines are made from the native Carignano grape, known as Carignan in France, and are “nearing cult status among serious wine enthusiasts”, claims Silfven.
Recommending this Santadi red from what was an “exceptional 2008 vintage”, Silfven said: “Of this bottle she said: ““Terre Brune” means brown earth — describing the dark porous soils of Sulcis. The grape is Carignane — if you spell it like Americans do. This one, from the exceptional 2008 vintage, is an inky, concentrated compote of plums and blueberries flavored with brown cooking spices, bay leaf and juniper, with hints of tobacco and chocolate. Tannins are smooth and well-developed; acidity is firm. It’s aged 18 months in barrel and a year in bottle.”
Price: $66
Collazzi Libertá 2012, Toscana
Recommending this Santadi red from what was an “exceptional 2008 vintage”, Silfven said: “Of this bottle she said: ““Terre Brune” means brown earth — describing the dark porous soils of Sulcis. The grape is Carignane — if you spell it like Americans do. This one, from the exceptional 2008 vintage, is an inky, concentrated compote of plums and blueberries flavored with brown cooking spices, bay leaf and juniper, with hints of tobacco and chocolate. Tannins are smooth and well-developed; acidity is firm. It’s aged 18 months in barrel and a year in bottle.”
Price: $66
Collazzi Libertá 2012, Toscana
This “delightful Tuscan blend” was a favourite of Dennis Sodomka’s, writing in The Augusta Chronicle.
He said: “Some would call this wine a Super Tuscan because it focuses on the French grapes of Merlot and Syrah instead of the traditional Sangiovese. I prefer to just call it a super wine. The blend is 15% Sangiovese to go with 55% Merlot and 30% Syrah, creating a powerful, food-friendly wine. In the glass it is a deep red, almost purple.
“There is a slight floral aroma, leading to lip-smacking dark fresh fruit tastes, especially plum. The wine is full-bodied, with sweet tannins that allow the fruit to show through. The aftertaste is complex and long, with some toasted oak notes. The winery says its goal is to achieve balance among Merlot’s soft tannins, Syrah’s spicy richness and the elegant fragrance of Sangiovese. They certainly achieved that.”
Price: $23 to 25
He said: “Some would call this wine a Super Tuscan because it focuses on the French grapes of Merlot and Syrah instead of the traditional Sangiovese. I prefer to just call it a super wine. The blend is 15% Sangiovese to go with 55% Merlot and 30% Syrah, creating a powerful, food-friendly wine. In the glass it is a deep red, almost purple.
“There is a slight floral aroma, leading to lip-smacking dark fresh fruit tastes, especially plum. The wine is full-bodied, with sweet tannins that allow the fruit to show through. The aftertaste is complex and long, with some toasted oak notes. The winery says its goal is to achieve balance among Merlot’s soft tannins, Syrah’s spicy richness and the elegant fragrance of Sangiovese. They certainly achieved that.”
Price: $23 to 25
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