When Oregon's wine pioneers looked out across the
state's varied landscape they saw what others didn't; a perfect
place for wine.
They understood that Oregon's northerly latitude
meant grapes would get extra growing season sunlight for long, even
ripening, and that our crisp, cool nights would help grapes retain their
freshening acidity. Such a combination meant Oregon grapes would
naturally achieve mature, balanced flavors and full varietal character.
The resulting wines, they surmised, could be sustainably grown and made
without dramatic manipulation to be naturally fresh, lively, and have
true-to-the-fruit flavors.
They were right. Today, the suitability of Oregon for great wine is
unquestioned. There's a home in Oregon for any wine grape, from Arneis
to Zinfandel.
In the marine-influenced Willamette Valley, cool-adapted grapes such as
Pinot noir, Pinot gris, Riesling, and Chardonnay ripen to perfection,
producing elegant wines with a global reputation. In the warm,
high-elevation vineyards of Southern Oregon and the Walla Walla Valley,
heat-loving varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, Syrah,
and Viognier are crafted into head-turning wines earning top scores from
national critics. And in the Columbia Gorge and Eastern Oregon, varied
microclimates allow winemakers and growers the luxury of working with
the widest range of grape varieties of anywhere in the state.
Gone are the days of the wine critic’s monopoly on
taste. Here in Oregon, nuance is king, oddball wines are winning, and
old-school winemakers are defying expectations with lighter, more
eclectic styles. For this year’s annual blind tasting of Oregon’s wide
world of wine, we rallied 13 of our favorite grape-stained wretches to
uncork more than a thousand bottles. The results were clear: great wine
is great wine, regardless of hue, price, or region. We were so pleased
and surprised with our final ranking that this year we decided not to
divide our list by category, but by ranking alone. So in celebration of
Oregon’s new era of grape diversity, we raise a glass to 17 varietals
from around the state in a single list, allowing the pinot noir to
entwine with the pinot blanc, the Riesling with the tempranillo, the
merlot with the Melon de Bourgogne. It is a true democracy of wine, and
it’s time you added your palate to the chorus.
1. Tyee Wine Cellars 2012 Estate Pinot NoirWillamette Valley, $25
99 This
bright, balanced bottle from winemaker Merrilee Buchanan Benson melds
classic pinot noir fruit flavors of cherries and cranberries with an
herbaceous backbone of eucalyptus and tea tree. The family-owned and
-operated label has maintained a commitment to small-batch quality wines
and sustainability for more than 29 years, using 100 percent solar
power at the winery and managing its own certified Salmon Safe estate
vineyards side by side with wetland and woodland habitats. Visitors to
Tyee’s Corvallis farm and tasting room can explore the estate’s nature
trails and hazelnut orchards, catch outdoor concerts, dive into the
family history of the land (dating back to 1885) and, of course, taste
the estate’s wines.
“Two years ago, when this bottle appeared in Portland Monthly’s
Top 50, it was one of my favorites. What wonderful things are happening
down there? I’m so impressed by its balance, earthiness, and structure.
It is the real epitome of what good pinot noir should taste like:
elegant complexity that unveils its layers like a beautiful peacock.”—Savanna Ray (manager, RingSide Fish House)
2. Brandborg Wines 2011 RieslingUmpqua Valley, $16
98.8 From
the state’s new cool-climate Elkton Oregon AVA, wine pioneers Terry and
Sue Brandborg prove that Southern Oregon isn’t all hot air. This
vibrant, textbook-dry Riesling combines crisp minerality with flavors of
tart peach that you won’t quickly forget.
3. Domaine Drouhin Oregon2012 Arthur ChardonnayDundee Hills, $35
98.7 This
exciting European-style chardonnay is rich and elegant with aromas of
lemon pie and anise, and gets even fresher on the palate with flavors of
tart apple and nectarine.
“I love a beautiful chardonnay
that tastes like chardonnay, and this is one of Oregon’s best. Fermented
in both older oak and stainless steel, this bottle rides that great
line between richness and acidity.”—Dana Frank (wine director, Ava Gene’s)
4. Croft Vineyards 2011 Savoir Vivre Organic Pinot NoirWillamette Valley, $35
98.5 Best
known for providing certified organic grapes to some of Oregon’s
top-shelf winemakers, Croft Vineyards also blends its own pinot noir
with incredible results. This structured wine offers refreshing acidity
and plenty of cranberry, cinnamon, orange rind, and tart cherry.
“I know Croft for its great
sauvignon blanc, but I think we were all floored when this wine was
unveiled. It displayed those classic cool vintage Oregon
characteristics, making it immediately charming but with potential to
improve over the next five years.”—Michael Garofola (general manager, Accanto)
5. Van Duzer Vineyards
2011 Alchemy Pinot NoirWillamette Valley, $65
98 Waving
a banner for the velvety, polished side of pinot noir, this silky wine
from certified Salmon Safe and LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology)
vineyards in Dallas, Oregon, offers bright acidity and notes of
grapefruit and strawberries.
6. Ponzi Wines
2012 Chardonnay ReserveWillamette Valley, $35
98 Grassy
and bright, this new-wave chardonnay offers flavors of peaches, melon,
apple, and lemon. Pair its delicious minerality with salmon or roast
chicken.
“This lush, creamy wine shows off
what’s great about Oregon-style chardonnay—and why the grape deserves
its reputation as one of the best in the world.”—David Speer (owner/sommelier, Ambonnay Champagne Bar)
7. Apolloni vinEyards
2012 Estate Chardonnay Willamette Valley, $15
97.9 A
true “patio pounder,” this fun, easy-drinking wine will convert anyone
with its bright stone-fruit tang. Serve with pineapple salsa and
scallops.
“A crisp, clean expression of the varietal that hits all the right points and gives you tons of value.”—Josh Wiesenfeld (general manager, Remedy Wine Bar)
8. RoxyAnn Winery
2011 TempranilloRogue Valley, $26
97.8 Lush
with flavors of ripe marionberries and jammy blackberries, this
balanced, complete wine is rich enough for lovers of big, bold reds but
won’t put off fans of lighter wines.
“After a change of winemakers a
few years back, this Medford winery is back with an impressive new take
on tempranillo that has it all—power, structure, finesse, and the
ability to age alongside your favorite Ribera del Duero for the next
five years or more. A real standout from Southern Oregon!” —Darryl Joannides (owner, Cork Bottle Shop)
9. Willamette Valley Vineyards
2012 Estate Pinot NoirWillamette Valley, $30
97.75 Winemaker
Don Crank transforms the fruit from vineyard founder Jim Bernau’s
31-year-old vines into a beautiful pinot noir that delivers from the
nose—bursting out of the glass with black pepper, candied cherries, and
spice—to a satisfyingly long finish.
10. Torii Mor Winery
2013 ViognierApplegate Valley, $20
97.75 Introducing
your go-to Thai takeout wine: with lush flavors of creamy peach, plenty
of acidity, and a complex finish, this bottle can stand up to spicy,
salty, savory, and sweet. (Fish-sauce wings, anyone?)
11. Brooks Wines 2012 Pinot NoirWillamette Valley, $28
97.75 Our
tasters loved the complex and playful nose of this biodynamically farmed
wine (bouncing from sweet thyme to crème fraîche and back to white
flowers) and its evolution into a clean, savory bottle that’s
tailor-made for the Oregon wine geek and ready to drink right now.
12. Ribera Vineyards
2013 Pinot Noir RoséWillamette Valley, $18
97.68 A true rosé lover’s rosé, this complex, crisp wine refreshes with flavors of peach, rhubarb, and an edge of salinity.
“This is the easy-drinking,
Southern French–style rosé you want to drink alfresco with your friends.
It won’t break the bank, it’s super food-friendly, plus it’s just such a
pretty pink!” —Samantha Hobbs Chulick (beverage director, Feast Portland)
13. Brigadoon Vineyards
2012 Lylee Pinot NoirWillamette Valley, $22
97.5 Spicy
and jammy, this is a pinot noir for big-red lovers. While it will
benefit from a few years in the cellar, it can stand up to heartier
food—and wouldn’t be out of place on your Thanksgiving table.
14. Longplay Wine
2011 Jory Bench Reserve Lia’s Vineyard Pinot NoirChehalem Mountains, $38
97.5 Grower
Todd Hansen and winemaker Jay Somers aim to make “analog wine for a
digital world.” Full of character and a sense of place, this bottle does
just that with flavors of tart, crunchy cranberry and black tea with an
edge.
15. Abacela 2013 AlbarinoUmpqua Valley, $20
97.5 Effervescent and rhythmic with lemony and floral notes, this bright, Spanish-style wine is
affordable and picnic-ready.
“This is an every(wo)man
wine—serious enough for those that want it, with enough fruit character
for the novice. A real crowd-pleaser.”—Greg Cantu (wine director, Grüner)
16. Brooks Wines 2011 Temperance Hill Pinot NoirEola-Amity Hills, $48
97.5 Drinkable
right now, this wine jumps out of the glass with aromas of Asian spices
and shiso. Extremely food-friendly, it’s ready to pair with funky blue
cheese or brie.
17. Methven
2013 Gamay RoséEola-Amity Hills, $21
97.5 Love Beaujolais? This pretty, dark pink rosé offers a clean finish that begs for burgers and ribs.
“What a distinctive take on one
of my favorite ‘underdog’ grapes! Playful, vibrant, and beautiful, with
flavors of bright strawberries and cherries.”—Colin Howard (owner, Oso Market and Bar)
18. Jaxon
2011 GrenacheRogue Valley, $35
97.5 A
complex mouthful of wild raspberries with spearminty menthol and
structured tannins, this easy-drinking intro to grenache will please all
kinds of wine lovers.
19. Harper Voit
Surlie Pinot Blanc 2013Willamette Valley, $20
97.5 Blending
flavors of poached peaches, warm spices, and a tropical edge, this wine
is big and rich, balanced by bright acidity and a light honeysuckle
finish. Pair it with pork tenderloin and apples or stuffed winter
squash.
20. Quady North2013 RoséRogue Valley, $14.50
97.5 Jubilant and delicious, bursting with strawberries, cherry, and lime, this easy-to-find bottle is a revelation for anyone who thinks they don’t like rosé.
21. Brick House
2012 Cuvée du Tonnelier Pinot NoirOrganic and Biodynamic
Ribbon Ridge, $45
97.3 Smart,
balanced, and elegant, this earthy wine blends vanilla, cedar, and
sandalwood with the pleasantly musty aroma of tomato leaves on a hot
day.
“It’s pretty simple—you should
drink Doug Tunnel’s wine as often as you have the opportunity. I think
of his wines as being soft-spoken but incredibly opinionated (and I
often agree with his opinion).”—Joel Gunderson (wine director, Coopers Hall, St Jack, Oven and Shaker, Grassa)
22. Adelsheim 2012 Caitlin’s Reserve ChardonnayWillamette Valley, $45
97.26 Tropical
and vibrant, this delicious Dijon-clone chardonnay is all about
pineapple, guava, and macadamia nuts—it’s the beach in a bottle.
23. Torii Mor
2011 Nysa Vineyard Pinot NoirDundee Hills, $55
97.25 Attention,
dessert lovers: this bottle bursts with aromas of banana and brown
sugar and flavors of molasses and brandy—it’s like pinot noir dreaming
of a perfectly caramelized fruitcake.
24. Van Duzer 2013 Pinot GrisWillamette Valley, $18
97.25 Charming floral aromas jump out of the glass, shifting to a slightly savory, herbal palate accented with apricot.
25. Flying Trout2010 Mary’s Block Malbec, Windrow VineyardWalla Walla Valley, $39
97.2 Inky
purple in the glass, this ode to elegant Argentine-style malbec offers
flavors of boysenberry and dark chocolate-covered cherries—surprisingly
balanced while jammy and fruit-forward.
“Winemaker Ashley Trout knows a
thing or two about malbec, having crafted the grape both in the Pacific
Northwest as well as in its New World homeland of Mendoza, Argentina.
The wine is fruit-driven and spicy, but full of restraint.”—Caryn Benke (beverage director, Andina)
26. Winter’s Hill2012 Estate Block 9-115 Pinot NoirDundee Hills, $44
97.1 Think
dark cherry pie filling with notes of juniper and pine—perhaps infused
with aromas from the protected Douglas fir woodland bordering this LIVE
and Salmon Safe–certified vineyard.
27. Domaine Serene2010 Yamhill Cuvée Pinot NoirWillamette Valley, $45
97 Bright
and juicy, this approachable wine is like a grown-up’s Vanilla Cherry
Coke, with bold, ripe fruit and vanilla from a year spent aging in
French oak barrels.
28. Folin 2010 SyrahFolin VineyardsRogue Valley, $30
97 Bloody, earthy, gamey, and dusty ...
if you’re a lover of big, lush Syrahs balanced by bright acid and
creamy oak, this gutsy Northern Rhône–style wine will surely seduce.
29. Love & Squalor2011 Pinot NoirWillamette Valley, $24
97 Food-friendly and easy-drinking, this fresh, vibrant bottle is your go-to for a weeknight dinner with friends.
“What I love about Matt Berson’s
wines are their simplicity. He works with the varietals he loves, and
he’s consistent. That’s the trick in my book, and that’s what makes his
wines so versatile.”—Sarah Egeland (sommelier, Smallwares)
30. Willakenzie 2011 Pierre Leon Pinot NoirYamhill-Carlton, $48
97 With
flavors of cherry cordial, orange, and anise, this bright, easy-drinking
pinot is about as sessionable as a red wine can get.
31. De Ponte Cellars
2012 DFB Estate Melon de BourgogneWillamette Valley, $25
97 A perfect match for fresh Northwest oysters, this bright wine’s salinity draws its spiritual lineage back to Loire muscadet.
32. Winderlea
2012 Dundee Hills Vineyard Pinot NoirDundee Hills, $38
97 Smooth
and seamless, this wine is all about texture. While the flavors stay
safely in cherry country, this is one you’ll keep coming back to for the
mouthfeel, with a finish that just won’t quit.
33. Grochau Cellars
2013 Pinot Noir RoséWillamette Valley, $16
97 Bright
and easy-drinking, notes of raspberry and strawberry are balanced by a
savory edge of white pepper and mouth-puckering acid.
34. Hyland Estates
2012 GewürztraminerMcMinnville, $28
96.75 Balanced
by a creamy undertone and a backbone of spice, this wine’s flavors of
lychee, rose petal, honeysuckle, and poached peaches make it perfect for
everyday drinking.
35. Ledger David 2011 SyrahRogue Valley, $35
96.75 Fruit-forward and full of blueberry boldness, this accessible wine won’t overshadow anything on your plate.
36. Andrew Rich
2013 Croft Vineyard Sauvignon BlancWillamette Valley, $22
96.74 Savory
and spicy, this certified-organic wine has hints of lime, green chiles,
and white pepper. Pour it with Mexican food, Asian takeout, or pasta.
37. Delfino
2011 TempranilloUmpqua Valley, $24
96.6 Herbaceous
and perfumed with aromas of rose and eucalyptus, Jim and Terri
Delfino’s juicy, playful wine shows the bright and light side of
tempranillo. Said one taster: “I could smell this all day long—it’s a
pinot drinker’s big red.”
38. Jasper Sisco 2012 Momtazi Vineyard Pinot NoirMcMinnville, $32
96.5 A
newcomer to the pinot scene, Alabama transplant Justin Paul Russell
crafts this wine at the SE Wine Collective using fruit from the renowned
Demeter-certified Biodynamic Momtazi Vineyard. To get the most out of
this young wine’s flavors of clove, dried cranberries, and chocolate,
decant before drinking.
39. iOta 2011 Pelos Sandberg Vineyard Pinot NoirEola-Amity Hills, $38 96.5 Aromas of sweet, rich cherry give way to a palate of smoked meat and crunchy red fruit.
40. Trisaetum
2013 Wichmann RieslingDundee Hills, $24
96.5 This
classic offering boasts clean flavors of honey, petrol, and white
flowers, with a vibrant acidity that draws a line from the nose to the
finish. Pair with ceviche or oysters.
41. Trisaetum
2013 Pinot Noir RoséWillamette Valley, $24 96.5 This light copper pour is rounded out with peaches and a long, smooth finish.
42. Griffin Creek 2011 Cabernet FrancRogue Valley, $40
96.2 A
bright red beauty with zippy acid and flavors of tea leaves, jasmine,
rose hips, and ripe red fruit, this bottle pairs well with Indian food,
braised short ribs, or coffee-infused desserts.
43. Roco
2012 Pinot NoirWillamette Valley, $24
96 Easy-drinking
and approachable, this pinot should be sipped on the front porch, where
you can savor its notes of roses, brown sugar, lilacs, and dried
cherries as the world goes by.
44. RoxyAnn2010 ClaretRogue Valley, $26
96 This
juicy, Bordeaux-style blend rounds out with punches of black cherry,
espresso, dark chocolate, and dark raspberries. Pour it with a grilled
steak and make the most of its creamy oak profile and soft tannins.
45. King Estate 2012 Domaine Oregon Pinot GrisWillamette Valley, $28
96 Balanced with aromas of wet stone and grapefruit, this easy-drinking wine is accented by a warm note of cardamom.
46. BergstrÖm
2012 Silice Pinot NoirChehalem Mountains, $65
96 A
versatile, food-friendly pour ripe with fresh raspberries on the nose,
this glass reminded our tasters of rich, warm marionberry cobbler.
47. Utopia
2012 Utopia Estate ChardonnayRibbon Ridge, $38
95.41 Complex,
with flavors of pine needles, white pepper, and nutmeg, this savory
wine features integrated oak and bright acidity. Bring it along on a
picnic with cold roast chicken.
48. Hyland Estate
2012 Estate Pinot NoirMcMinnville, $38
95.5 Tis
user-friendly wine is perfect for a dinner party—its bright cherry pie
flavor will pair well with anything your hosts are serving.
49. Dancin Vineyards
2011 Syrah DanseurSouthern Oregon, $30
95 Light
ruby in the glass, this pretty wine will appeal to lovers of pinot and
gamay, with its notes of sweet green herbs, red currants, and cherry
skins.
50. Cliff Creek Cellars
2010 MerlotRogue Valley, $22
94.5 Ripe and rich, this über-drinkable merlot offers clean flavors of sweet orange peel, cherries, and roses.
Source: Monthly Portland Wine
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